| Author | Message | ||
     M Lappin |
Am new to this discussion, was looking thru your archives and come across how unreliable the 1855 motors were. My father and a neighbor, who worked for white farm in south bend, came up with a solution for its problems 20 or maybe even 25 years ago after knocking out several sets of wrist pins, never had a rod through the block though. 1. Take oil pan off and add at least three inches to it. 2. Weld in a pipe fitting near the bottom of the sump, and another to the front. Use the lower one as a suction port and the front as a return. Add another pump just like the one used for hydraulic cooling and run off of same belt. Plumb pump to a add on oil cooler mounted on front of grill, end of problem. Oil pressure always stayed up around 55 to 60 pounds and got over 15 years out of a rebuilt before anyproblems with rods or wrist pins. A whole in the sleeve let enough antifreeze into the oil to take care of that rebuild. However after doing all that it was Dads big horse for quite awhile than after he bought the 2255 it still did all the planting with a 8 row and all the hay mowing. If anybody just got done putting one back together this would be something to really consider before working it hard and heavy. Worked so well that when he bought his second 1855 soon as it was unloaded it went straight into the shop for the same treatment before ever being used. Anyways just a thought. | ||
| Wrenchbender |
I'm rebuilding a 1955 and was thinking about adding to the pan and putting some tubes through the extension for cooling. The pump sounds like a good idea. Luckily I haven't had a 310 break yet(knock on wood). I try to change the oil at about 50 hrs. WB. | ||
| Marty Lappin (M_lappin) |
Yah it did seem to work pretty good, one other thing was that we had a check valve directly off the pan on the suction side to make sure the pump never lost its prime. |
