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1945 60 won't start

The Oliver Gang Message and Discussion Board » All Things Oliver Archives: October 6, 2000 thru December 31, 2001 » 1945 60 won't start « Previous Next »

Author Message
 

Geoffrey Heck (Oliverdude)
Posted on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 10:25 am:   

My 60 has spark, gas, and compression. Now it is not one of those stupid new things with a computer. Why the **** won't the **** thing start? I know the timing is close enough to start and the carb is adjusted correctly. Could I have adjusted the valves incorrectly. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

Chris Losey (Admin)
Posted on Wednesday, September 19, 2001 - 10:09 pm:   

Geoffrey,
Could be several things. Could be a weak spark. It takes alot more juice for a spark to jump the gap when under compression than what it does in the open air. You might need to replace the coil.
Do you have fresh gas in the tank?
Have you tried new points and condensor?
Have you tried new spark plugs?

If you adjusted the valves too tight, you wouldn't be getting good commpression. If the gap is set too wide, then you might have trouble starting since the engine isn't getting a good breath of the fuel/air mix.

The first thing I would try is to spray some carb cleaner or ether (conservatively) into the carb while cranking. If it starts to run, you have fuel problems. If not you have ignition/compression problems.

Let us know how things turn out.
 

Geoffrey Heck (Oliverdude)
Posted on Thursday, September 20, 2001 - 10:15 am:   

Chris,
The answer to all your questions is yes. I just cleaned the carb and gave it a little shot of either. That didn't work. I know the ignition system is ok. The spark plugs are not even getting wet. I have been thinking about the cam being 180 degrees off. What do you think. The compression is within just a few of psi of what it is supposed to be.
 

Chris Losey (Admin)
Posted on Thursday, September 20, 2001 - 5:25 pm:   

If the cam was exactly 180 degrees off, your ignition would be 180 off too. But, the distributor can be 180 off also, which would put you back at normal.
If the distributor was set at the normal spot, you should be able to switch the plug wires to opposite sides on the cap, and then you'd be back in time.

Remove the valve cover and #1 spark plug, roll the engine by hand until both valves are closed when #1 piston is on its way up. (You may need a pen light to tell when #1 piston is coming up.) When the piston is at the top (TDC), the rotor should pointing towards or just slightly past the #1 spark plug wire terminal. If it's not then you have a timing problem.

The fact that the plugs are still dry after what I assume is quite a bit of trying still makes me think it might be a fuel delivery issue. Is it even popping at all? If it was firing a little but not running would explain dry plugs. Does the exhaust smell like gas after cranking?

Let us know how it goes.

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