| Author | Message | ||
     Corre k |
I recently Had a complete overhaul on said motor do to always missing with all new piston,sleeves,head,injector pump,injectors rebuild it still misses we shaved the head more to true it up but still misses cam is good shape energy cells were cleaned with rebuilting of head I dont know what else to tyr motor has about 8hours in it and seems to be getting worse I tock it back where I had it overhauled and everthing checked out but cannt get ride of miss any one have any Ideas I have 4500.00 stuck in a motor that runs like it did before overhaul | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
We rebuilt our 1800 and figured that the new parts were up to specs since they were new. It had a slight knock from the first time it was started. We ran it hoping it would go away. I finally got tired of it and tore it down. That brand new sleeve was bored out too big and the noise was piston slap. I got a new sleeve, piston and rings and checked the measurements on it before I installed it. Boy did that make all the difference in the world. It runs like a champ now. That old piston and sleeve still sit on my work bench to remind me not to take things for granted. The moral of my story is that new parts can occasionally be defective, that's why there are warranties. I would figure out which cylinder is missing, and then tear down the enigine and check all of the specs for that hole. Pistons size, ring end gap, ring lands, sleeve bore, sleeve protusion, valves, injector, energy cell and so on. You shouldn't have to tear the whole engine down, just the offending hole. | ||
| Tom Anderson |
12-25-03 Chris - Merry Christmas ! and - AMEN I am a neophyte mechanic, and a few years ago when I was doing my first complete brake job (on my old Ford truck), I replaced all the drums, shoes, pads and rotors. I was very careful to observe how I took the assemblies apart and kept everything in order. All went well until I got to the last step, putting the new pads in the front rotors. I tried everything I could for two days to get them to go in, but could not do it. And on the third day - I had the stroke of genius to dig the old pads out of the garbage and tried them. Of course, they did fit! I went down to my machinist neihbor and borrowed some micrometers from him. The new pads were manufactured I believe about 0.003 larger at one point than the old. I went back to the "do it yourself" chain store where I bought them and they were very willing to exchange them for any of the other 3 sets they had (probably from the same shipment) although I measured each set and showed them they were all wrong. A trip to the "mechanic Friendy" chain got me a set of pads that were they right size and cheaper. I recently replaced everything of my son-in-law's Honda. The brake line connectors would not fit the new calipers, nor did the store have any in stock that would !!! I often thank God that He did not give me any mechanical ability and the grasp of this limitation not to try any major engine work (eventhough installing the transmission in my truck 3 times was a humbling experience). Sorry about the "non-Oliver" discussion, but I do own an Oliver Super 55 and in fact in October I dealt with the problem you discussed with me last year, the tourqing of the starter bendix springs. I checked all of the electrical possibilities out but decided to just bite the bullet and had a new ring gear put on the flywheel (by my mechainic, of course) and that seems to have taken care of it. One last thing of a historical significance. My serial number is "6017" which is apparently the 17 th. Super 55 built. I mentioned this to my mechanic, and he said that was correct, and that he used to own #5. He also told me that the first carload of Super 55's were shipped here(the Salem-Pekin in Southern Indiana). | ||
| Corre K |
Thanks for the help the compression is low across all cylinders 260-280 book says 360-380 I guess back to drawing board THe old pistons match the new ones with in a thousand but maybe they were wrong tractor never did run right sense I had it for 2 years know We put new valve springs in and it seemed to help but still low compression Is there a different between gas pistons and diesel maybe it was wrong from get go there are 4 rings but book I have really dosnt say much on these specs I pulled the exhuast manafold of and al cylinders seem to aked the same way maybe new injector pump to strong can A person ajust the pressure of the pump kinda looking in the dark here I have did 4 gas olivers and never had problem kinda lost on the dieselthankyou again for the help | ||
| J. Schwiebert |
A couple of questions. did you preform a leak down test of all the cylinders? Second question, when the head was rebuilt, were the valves and seats ground without any though to setting valve recession. Third question, What is the piston protrusion and are they flat top pistons? On the pump, injection pressure is determined by how much pressure is necessary to open the nozzles in other words whn fuel pressure overcomes spring tension the valve lifts upward and the valve opens. What were the injectors set at. What do have it timed to?(In degrees) | ||
| Corre |
the pistons are flat top The head was sent to a diesel shop up here that set ti to spec. They put new seats and all new vavles mine were ground wrong Injectors are at 1700-1750 Timing we lined up marks on pump with flywheel marks cannt remeber exacted number but it was set to book specs. THE leak down test wil get down today the compression was better after the head was shave 8thousands and new rings put in it was not burning the fuel so we thought maybe the the rings didnt seat We plan on running it on a dyno for a while working it then take another compression check we checked it after the recent head work but we didnt run motor thank you for your time Corre | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
John has some very good points to check out. There were some pistons that looked the same but had a different distance from the wrist pin center to the top of the piston. On the same 1800 I mentioned before we had one piston that looked the same, but when you rolled the crank around the piston actually stuck out of the sleeve by about a 1/8". If someone got the wrong set of pistons in there before, and you got a matching set in now, you would have a matching problem. Check the piston dimensions against the book. I would check an old one, so you don't have tear down the engine for what may be a wild goose chase. How long does it miss after starting? | ||
| Corre |
It misses till it gets to operating temp if I work it hard to hold it at operating temp it is really hard to hold temp the tractor is in shop my mechanic wonts to run it on a dyno for an hour to see if it gets better with winter I cannt do much to help seat the rings we broke one when taking it apart so we put all new ones in fishing in the dark thing I check the old pistons to book and see THank you Corre | ||
| John Schwiebert |
Well the best way to seat chrome rings is to put the engine under a load. Run it at rated speed and after 10-15 minutes see if you can get at least a load of 55 horsepower out of it. Run it for a good hour and also change the oil and filter. Don't look at it cause 90% of the time it looks bad which is normal. Since you told me the surfacing of the head did the most good I am getting to the point of thinking your valve recession is out to lunch. 10-15 thousands can make a big difference. Most engine manufactures only have a tollerance on this of 20 thousands. Call the shop who did the head and since he told you he set the recession to specs ask him what those specs are. Tell him to give you those specs and then put them on here. When you timed the pump, did you back it up an 1/8 of a turn or so and then roll the engine over in the direction of roation and recheck the timing. If you have questions ask away. We took care of about 25 of those 1650's with the old style engine, Naturally some started better than others, but one thing that would be a plus for you is to get yourself a good block heater. They have so many advantages. My oldest son farms with the other shade of green and a red one too. I have him convinced to have a block heater on all of them. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
At this point my money is on bad timing, but John definitely knows what he is talking about. Have you checked the thermostat? Put it in a pan of water on the stove top with a meat thermometer, and then heat the water up. You will see it opening up somewhere around 160 degrees, depending on the thermostat. It should be pretty much open around 180. Also, how well does this engine start? | ||
| Corre |
I wil be working on tractor more tomorrow so I let you know how things work out thank you for all your help Corre |
