| Author | Message | ||
     john |
i am looking for a smaller fwa [1550,1650,or 55]do you know where one may be in need of alittle tlcthanks john | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
All I can say is, get in line. These tractors were few and far between. I have been keeping my eyes open for a 1655 FWA for someone I met at the show in Cedar Falls, Iowa. And if you come across a 1600 FWA, let me know, I'll give it a good home. Also, to the best of my knowledge, the power front axle was not available on the 1550 or 1555. | ||
| leo |
I recently purchased a 1655FWA. How were these tractors, particularly the fwa portion? | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
The 1650 and 1655 are just about the most popular Oliver around. We don't see many for sale in our area, not because they aren't around, but because no one wants to sell theirs. The front axle was made by Clark and with the exception of ring and pinion gear ratios, were the same for all of the Charles City built Olivers. So the axle under your 1655 is the same one that was under a 2255. Plenty of room for extra horsepower. The biggest flaw the axle has is the constant velocity steering joint, and it can be remedied. What happens is the joint is lubricated with grease and the differential and final drives are lubed with 90 weight gear oil. When the seals fail that hold the oil in their respective compartments, the oil gets on the constant velocity joint and will wash the grease out of it. New seals and brass thrust washers will get things back in shape. The thrust washers keep the shafts centered in the seals, preventing premature failure. We also make up a brass bushing to put in the axle housing to support the inner shaft. This makes the whole setup last much longer than the original. Next time I have one apart (this winter) I will take pictures to show what we do to modify them. Now I need to go get on my 1655 FWA and plant some wheat. Let me know if you have any more questions. | ||
| leo |
I now have my 1655FWA. New to FWA tractors. I see the control lever for the 4wd, but unsure which position is engadged vs. disengadged. Also, when on hill, does not seem to roll easily in neutral. Anyway, when in field, can you engadge on move? Should you push in clutch to engadge, or diengadge? Can 4wd be used in any gear? | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
When the lever is pulled out, the front axle is engaged. To disengage, it may be necessary to back the tractor up a few feet while pushing in on the lever. This is because the front axle is geared to run about 5% more ground speed than the rear axle. With this slight difference in final ratios, it can put a bind on the drive line. This is normal, but makes it shift out of 4wd on the hard side. By backing up, you 'un-wind' the load on the gears allowing them to slide much easier. It is this same final ratio difference that makes the tractor not roll in neutral as easy as a 2wd tractor. These are normal characteristics of FWA tractors. While these units were not designed for on the go engagement and disengagement,I have been able to engage on the go with my 1655, but it has to be just about coasting for the teeth in the shifting collar to line up long enough to engage it. A slight forward or backwards movement while pulling the lever will help line the teeth up better than trying to engage at a standstill. Disengaging while coasting downhill will unload the bind on the gears and allow you to shift out while moving. The clutch doesn't have be pushed in to engage the front axle either. 4wd can be used in any gear, but Oliver recommended that 4wd be disengaged while driving on any dry hard surface. This will prevent wear on the front axle components and premature tire wear. I have used 4wd in road gear during the winter when there was quite a bit of snow still on the road, but I always disenage the front axle when I'm not in the field or any situation where I don't need it. | ||
| leo |
Thanks, that info is very helpful. I love that fwa 1655. |
