| Author | Message | ||
     Jay Sloniker Posted From: 69.151.89.14 |
I have a chance to buy a 1550 gas, but it has been parked for 5- 6 years and it will not move when put in gear. It will start and run, but does need carb work. I checked the trans fluid and it is empty, I am wondering how much fluid it takes and if it will go ahead and work after I fill it? What are possible sources of the leak? Is it likely to need major repairs? Thanks in advance for any advice you all can offer, this will be my first tractor purchase and though I am somewhat mechanically inclined, I have a lot to learn about this tractor. | ||
| Jay Sloniker Posted From: 64.85.210.39 |
I filled the hydra unit and it still will not move, shaft comming out of the unit will not turn. I pulled the tractor and the shaft did spin, but would not turn the motor over. The clutch did not act like it was doing anything while I was pulling the tractor. Does the clutch require pressure to operate? I am stumped for now, any advice would be appreciated. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) Posted From: 67.142.130.49 |
That's not sounding good at all. You can pull start one of them, but the hydra-power has to be in direct drive. It will take a few feet of pulling for the pump in the hydra-power to create enough pressure to engage direct drive. Does the main clutch feel normal? Is there some free-play before you can feel resistance as you push the pedal down? One way or the other, it sounds like the motor is going to have to come out of the tractor. It either has a hydra-power that is whipped, or a main clutch that is. Either way, I would say you can figure a bare minimum of $500 worth of parts. The hydra-power could get up into the $1K -$2K area pretty quick, and that is providing your own labor. I'm not saying to run away from the 1550, as it is a great all around tractor. But it needs some repairs, and needs to be priced accordingly. | ||
| Jay Sloniker Posted From: 69.151.89.14 |
Thanks, Chris, I've read a lot of your posts and I appreciate your knowledge of these tractors. I don't have a good reference for the feel of the clutch, but it seems suspiciously smooth, all I can feel from top to bottom is the resistance of the spring hooked to the pedal. There is no free play or resistance. The exhaust manifold gaskets are also blown, and the carb is going to have to be rebuilt/replaced, what kind of money am I looking at on those two items? | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) Posted From: 72.171.0.147 |
The more you describe it, the more it sounds like a problem with the main clutch. It sounds like it is stuck open for some reason that I can't figure out. Maybe it is so worn out that it won't even grab any more, or maybe the facings came off the clutch disc. Are there any noises from around the clutch area when the engine is running? There is an inspection plate at the bottom of the bell housing that comes off with 2 bolts. A lot of times the plate is gone. It won't let you see what is wrong directly, but if there are metal bits and pieces in there, that will narrow it down to the main clutch. New gaskets and a carb are going to run you about $50 in parts all together. A rebuilt carb is going to jump up to around $150, and a new one will be around $250. Those Marvel Schebler carbs are very simple and easy to rebuild. | ||
| Jay Sloniker Posted From: 69.151.89.14 |
I think you're right about the clutch, it seems to be stuck open, but there is still good tension on the clutch lever that links to the pedal. I do not hear any noise comming from the area either. When I pulled the tractor it did act like the clutch was depressed the whole time, even though it wasn't. I looked under the bell housing breifly last night for an inspection plate but did not see one, I'll look harder tonight. I just thought if the clutch was out, it would be disengaged all the time, but it seems to be the other way around. Have you ever heard of anything like this? | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) Posted From: 67.142.130.12 |
I put a clutch in my White 2-155 last winter. The center hub of the clutch disc had sheared off from the rest of it, and would not transfer power at all because of it. The tractor would not move on it's own. All of the dampener springs were flying around in there, making all kinds of rattle-rattle crunch noises. The clutch pedal was also very hard to push down because bits and pieces were wedged inside the clutch cover preventing it from working properly. Could be that 1550 had the center hub strip off or break without ruining the dampener springs so there wouldn't be lots of pieces floating around. If that were the case, I would think that the clutch pedal would have a normal amount of resistance, but it wouldn't transfer power. Is there free-play in the clutch pedal? The pedal should move down 1-2 inches before you feel the resistance of the clutch opening. It could just be really worn and the free pedal needs adjusting. I don't see this as the problem, as it seems like even a slipping clutch would turn the coupler chain when the tractor was in neutral. | ||
| Jay Sloniker Posted From: 69.151.89.14 |
I don't feel any free play at all, the linkage to the clutch pedal is adjusted nearly all the way out (extended as far as possible.) The clutch pedal will snap all the way back up to the stop when released. Coupler chain will not even budge. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) Posted From: 67.142.130.20 |
It sounds like someone has the clutch pedal adjusted very poorly. If that linkage is fully extended, it could be holding the clutch open 100% of the time. On the rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the arm that comes out of the bell housing, loosen the jam nut, remove the pin that goes through the bell housing arm, and screw the turnbuckle back some to shorten up that linkage. It will be adjusted right when you can push the clutch pedal down by hand 1-2 inches before feeling the extra resistance of the clutch working. You are probably going to need something to pry against the arm that comes out of the bell housing in order to get it to move back some, as there will be enough pressure on the pin that it will come out hard. Adjusted properly, it will come out by hand with the clutch pedal up. Try that and see how it works. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) Posted From: 67.142.130.20 |
I just got thinking, the book tells when putting the tractor in long term storage, you should wire the clutch pedal down to keep the clutch disc from sticking to the flywheel. Maybe someone just extended that rod to do the same thing, leaving the clutch open so it didn't end up sticking. | ||
| Jay Sloniker Posted From: 69.151.89.14 |
I pulled the inspection plate off the bell housing and found a couple peices of sheetmetal each about 2 inches square with small round holes. They had obviously been tangled up in the flywheel or something because they were scarred up. Any idea what they are? I'll try adjusting clutch linakage and let you know what happens. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) Posted From: 72.171.0.140 |
How thick was the metal? It's not sounding familiar right off. Could be the remains of the throw out bearing cage... Did you get a chance to try adjusting the free-pedal? | ||
| Kruse Posted From: 70.41.138.98 |
This sounds like the clutch disc to me. Remember that not all clutch discs are one piece and round and that some of them have square pieces in them. The round holes would be for the rivets. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) Posted From: 72.171.0.140 |
I bet you're right. I was thinking button disc, but a fiber disc would have parts like described. If that's the case, then the motor definitely has to come out, as there is nothing between the pressure plate and the flywheel, and therefore nothing to transfer the power. |
