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Replacing brakes on 1650 Industrial

The Oliver Gang Message and Discussion Board » All Things Oliver Archives Jan 1, 2008 - » Replacing brakes on 1650 Industrial « Previous Next »

Author Message
 

Lynn Davis
Posted From: 74.251.59.194
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2008 - 4:33 pm:   

I have no brakes...I mean NO BRAKES. With the backhoe and front loader, the brake plate is behind a triangular bracket about 3/4" thick. Who has experience replacing brakes. Can it be done?
 

Chris Losey (Admin)
Posted From: 67.142.130.35
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2008 - 5:23 pm:   

I just did the brakes on the left side on my 1600 industrial, which should be very similar. I could get one bolt out of the cover, and the other two hit the loader frame. I took the torch and cut a hole large enough for the head of the bottom bolt to enter the frame tube, that gave me enough room to get it all the way out. I removed the third bolt as far as I could, and the swung the brake cover around on it until it was out of the way. I was then able to remove the brake discs and actuator, clean it up and replace what needed to be.

Before you go that far, do you know how to adjust the brakes? Crawl underneath, and there is a threaded bolt that sticks out of the lower front of the housing. It will have two nuts on it. Loosen the outer nut, and then tighten the inner nut a few turns. Check the brake pedal and tighten that nut until there is a couple of inches of pedal travel before you can feel it get more solid. Once they are adjusted, don't forget to run the outer nut down to the inner one and tighten them against each other.

Two things to watch out for while you are doing this.
One: if there is oil coming out where that bolt comes out, then the seal on the bull pinion shaft is leaking, and the brake discs (which are supposed to be dry) will most likely be so soaked with oil that they will never work right again.
Two: the adjusting bolt only goes so far, so even if the brakes are dry, they may just be worn out. Don't try to over-tighten the adjusting bolt and break something.

The bull pinion seal shouldn't be too hard to replace with the right tools. Just drill a small hole into the seal, then take a slide hammer with a screw on the end, screw it into the hole in the seal, and pull it out. Carefully drive the new seal in, and you should be set.

In the case of my 1600, I tightened the adjusting bolt, and found that the internal linkage on the brake actuator was rusted up. I could brake, but that side wouldn't release once I let off the pedal. I took the parts out, and got everything moving freely and cleaned up, replaced the return springs because they were stretched and put it back together with new discs. The old ones weren't shot, but they were close to it. It works great now.
 

Lynn Davis
Posted From: 70.157.29.80
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2008 - 5:51 pm:   

Thanks, Chris. Yes, I checked the adjustment. It's all the way. I've not noticed oil leaking around the bull pinion shaft, but then again, I wasn't looking. I'll know when I get the cover off. Again, thanks for the info on removing the brake cover.
 

Lynn Davis
Posted From: 74.251.59.178
Posted on Sunday, May 25, 2008 - 5:23 pm:   

Well what do you know, my 1650 already had a factory hole through the frame tube for the bottom bolt.

There was no oil leaking out of the brake cover because it was all inside. Man, what a mess. Looked like the whole assembly had been "greased".

The springs were either broken or completely missing. Balls were in the bottom. No wonder I had no brakes.

I've ordered brake disc, springs, bull pinion seals, seal covers, and balls. I'll now use degreaser and have everything cleaned up for the "install" job when my parts come in.

None of this would have been possible without this forum. Thanks Chris. I'll post here when my brake job is complete.

 

Lynn Davis
Posted From: 70.152.92.186
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 8:58 pm:   

Well, the brake disc and acuator came out of the left side OK, probably because the actuator assembly was in pieces. The right side has been a challenge. So far, I have not been able to get the actuator to clear the bull pinion shaft.

I've removed the actuating leaver. Next, I may try to drift the large pin in the triangular bracket outward and maybe take my torch and cut a hole large enough for that third stud. I'll have to jack the backhoe up to relieve the load. It's tough going, but at least I now know why I had "no brakes".
 

Chris Losey (Admin)
Posted From: 67.142.130.18
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 9:22 pm:   

Try taking a block of wood and hammer and driving the actuator bolt back into the housing. That's what I had to do with mine. Since it was rusted, it was stuck part-way actuated, with the 2 halves spread. This made the assembly too wide to get past the bull pinion. Driving the bolt in made the actuator plates rotate and come together, making the assembly narrow enough to then get past the bull pinion.
 

Lynn Davis
Posted From: 70.152.92.186
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 10:21 pm:   

Hey thanks. Mine is stuck ALL the way out. I just didn't think about the thickness.
 

Chris Losey (Admin)
Posted From: 67.142.130.18
Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 10:31 pm:   

Don't forget to use that block of wood so you don't ruin the threads or mushroom the bolt.
 

Lynn Davis
Posted From: 74.251.59.228
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 8:55 pm:   

Chris, I now have brakes! After removing the load from the connecting links, I finally had to take a torch and cut the inside 3/8" triangular brackets off. (The brackets had been previously cut off and welded back on.) This allowed me enough access to replace the bull pinion seals. I also replaced the top bolts with class 8 studs. Now, the cover can be completely removed when future brake replacement is necessary.

Thanks again, Lynn
 

Chris Losey (Admin)
Posted From: 67.142.130.17
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 10:03 pm:   

Great! Sounds like it ended up being quite a bit of work. If you need any more help, just ask, and enjoy your Oliver.

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