| Author | Message | ||
     Marty Lappin (M_lappin) |
We have been very happy with our 4-210 once we got that tranny problem fixed. Now I would like your opinion on something. We are looking at either another 4-210 or a 4-225 before spring comes around. There is a 4-210 down South from us coming up at auction at the end of next week. The question is there any major differences between the 4-210 and the 4-225? Which would you rather have? Far as our tillage equipment goes most of it can be used with the 4-175 no problem and what the 4-175 wont handle a 4-225 wouldn't have near enough HP either. That equipment gets hooked to the MF 4880. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
There aren't very many differences. The you have mentioned one here before. If you bought a 4-210, according to the book, it is going to have the smaller bolts attaching the drive shaft to the back of the over/under unit, just like you had trouble with in yours, if it is before serial number 275964. All 4-225's should have the larger bolts in already. The other thing I like about the 4-225 is the factory turbo. I've been told that the 3208 with factory turbo had more webbing in the block, and tended to hold up better, and have less vibration due to this. I do think that my 4-225 runs smoother than other 3208's that I have run. Those are the only things I can think of. Beyond that, they are almost identical tractors. | ||
| Marty Lappin (M_lappin) |
Same hydraulics and three point? I really like that they got away from two differant oil supplies in the rear end, and having a "Park" built into the transmission will put an end to the help leaving the parking brake on and frying the brake pads. | ||
| Chris Losey (Admin) |
The hydraulic pump does have a different part number between the two. I don't know if there is a capacity difference or not. The three point was the same on both, and either one could have an extra external lift cylinder for "increased lift capacity". The 4-225 replaced the 4-210 in 1983. So what you have in your 4-210 is there, plus more. | ||
| Marty Lappin (M_lappin) |
We have most of the winter to look, but from what I see a 4-225 is a considerably harder tractor to find, and of course that is reflected in price. Where is another question. I have heard from a few sources that most of the 4-270's when put on a dyno usually put out a little more than 300 hp. Whats you're take on this? We are kinda of looking for a backup for our 4880 which we turned up to the 375hp. Was just wondering if the CAT in the 4-270 might have more torque to make up for the hp difference. Have heard nothing but good things about the 4-270's, especially the power shifts in them. Right now we pull a 25' White chiesel plow and a 26' field cultivator hooked behind the chiesel with the 4880 and depending on the spring and if it was just a little wetter than it should have been the previous fall it can really make the 903 in the MF work. Most of the time though we can go right along at 6-6.5 mph no problem while just dropping a few hundred rpm on the tach. | ||
| admin |
I haven't seen a 4-270 on the dyno, so I couldn't comment on the power. I do find it interesting that the engine in the 4-270 has about 2 cubic inches less on displacement, and 2 less cylinders than the 4-225, but still makes around 50 HP more. Two areas that I have seen problems in the 4-270. First is the brakes. Seems the linings on the brake discs tend to seperate from the disc, and can cause quite a bit of contamination to end up in the tranny. The second is an electronic module that controls a transmission brake in the power shift. The 4-270 uses one of the clutch packs in the powershift as the main drive clutch. Viscous drag won't let the tranny stop turning totally, making shifting the manual part of the transmission impossible. So they put a little brake in there that stops the tranny from turning so the manual part can be shifted ok. This brake is controlled by a module that senses ground speed. The module would only allow that tranny brake to apply if the tractor was going slower than about 2 MPH, otherwise it would burn this brake up. If the module goes bad, the brake stays on all the time, eventually wears out, and then you can't shift the 4 speed manual tranny because the gears won't stop turning. The tractor has to be split to fix this brake. I have heard of one fellow in Iowa that removed the module, and put a switch at the bottom of the clutch pedal's travel. Then he just need to remember to not push the pedal fully to the bottom, except when the tractor is stopped or moving slowly. It's a cheaper fix than buying a new module, but if the brake is already worn out, you'd still need to split the tractor to fix it. Hope this helps | ||
| Marty Lappin (M_lappin) |
Sounds like our MF. The 4000 series used a manual tranny brake on the clutch. Wet clutch, multiple discs, around five I think, pressure lubed throw out bearing with the remainder of the fluid going to the clutchs for coolings. This is a pull type clutch like in the larger trucks and if I remember correctly the owners manual doesn't say a thing about this brake but the service manual says in BOLD letters "do not fully depress clutch pedal untill tractor comes to a complete stop". If you push the pedal all the way down then this little 5" disc trys to stop the whole tractor and obviously will not last long. When we rebuilt tranny I priced it out of curiousity and was going to replace because, well you know, its out, its apart, never easier than now. Then found out Agco thought it was made of platinum and the package was gold plated, about $450 if I remember right. Don't have to split this tractor, instead you either remove the cab or build a set of rails and rollers and roll it back over the rear wheels to get tranny out. Not to bad of a job, except tranny is extremely heavy, around 2300 lbs if I remember right. First time borrowed stuff from Fowler Farm Center, second time had to built all our own stuff as they were getting ready to sell out and weren't loaning out the rails, rollers or the transmission stand which is required to roll the tranny up on its end to remove the clutch. Just like a automatic tranny, you know, drop it in a barrel to slide the TC in. Anyways now that I have my own stuff taking up precious room in one of the barns I probaly will never need tham again, hopefully that is. Something else I remember is the service manual says not to engage or disengage the clutch at anything but a dead idle, however you can't find that anywhere in the owners manual either. Only thing I can figure is that being a multiple disc clutch they might be worried about chatter at higher rpms, pretty much keep the help away from that one and only Father and I run it. | ||
| Marty Lappin (M_lappin) |
Whoops, one last thing, the adding a switch to the clutch pedal ain't a bad ideal, but, would be even better if switch was moved to the manual shifter. Clutch could be pushed all the down but brake wouldn't activate untill button was pushed on shifter. Manual tranny brakes are usually a royal pain sooner or later. My cousin wants me to pull tranny in his grain truck because guess what? the tranny brake is cooked. Don't know if I will get to it our not, had him bring it over once a year for adjustment and told him every time that he needs to make sure the help knew the right way to use it. It was bad enough swapping engines in it. I didn't do the tranny and don't want to either. Old Dodge T-80 build like a tank and solid as a rock. What was original for engine and tranny is anybodys guess. Had a 478 IH gasser in it when he bought it, but still had diesel only sticker on fuel tank and on dash board. Yanked that and fitted a 3208 in it for him. If it wasn't for the fact that he lets ANYBODY use it I would probaly buy it off him next time he offers and give it the TLC it needs. Like I said solid truck, My grandkids would probaly have a chance to use it then. Best tranny brake I have personally used is in one of my uncles trucks and is air operated on the shifter. On the backside kind of opposite side of range shifters for the 13 speed. |
