| Author | Message | ||
     Super 55 |
Well, I am venturing into uncharted territory with my restoration. I have taken the final drive apart installed new bearings, seals and sleeves in my Super 55, and now I am about to adjust the differential. I have never done this before so I am a little aprehensive about getting started. When the manual asks me to set the end play between .000 to .003" what surface am I running the run out gauge on? I can't tell from the photo in the repair manual. Once I get that figured out I know I'll have some back lash questions. Any help would be apprecitated. | ||
| Chris Losey |
You'll want your dial indicator mounted to the frame somehow and the pointer touching the gear side or the back side of the ring gear of the differential. Then take a pry bar and move the differential side to side and you should have between .001 and .003 inches of movement. If it is more remove shims, if it is less (too tight) put shims back in. This is from my 2050, but they are adjusted the same.  What you are trying to do is to adjust how much the differential ring gear (marked by the blue line) moves in the bearings in the direction of the 2 red arrows. The ring gear should only move that .001-.003 inches from side to side when adjusted properly. When checking this measurement, be sure that the ring gear isn't being held by being tight against the pinion shaft gear. If it is, move some shims from the ring gear side to the pinion gear side. It's basically like adjusting the axle bearings, except there are 2 shim packs. The reason for 2 shim packs comes into play when you adjust the backlash between the gears. Once your end play is correct, you will have the correct number of shims, it just a matter of moving them from one side to the other to get the ring gear the right distance from the bevel pinion gear. Let me know if you need more information. | ||
| Super 55 |
Chris thanks for the information, your post with the pictures is a big help. i'll get to it later this week, I'm taking my wheels in for painting today, i don't have a place to paint them in the bad weather. Trying to get this tractor back on the ground. | ||
| Chris Losey |
I got to thinking, is your differential ring gear riveted or bolted to the differential assembly? There was a problem with rivet heads breaking and so they switched to bolts and nuts. This was what had happened to our Super 55 before we bought it. A rivet came loose, slid out some and came around against the bull gear. Apparently the rivet was still stronger than the teeth on the ring gear and the bevel pinion gear, because teeth came off and the different carrier cracked. If you have the bolts, don't worry about it, but if you have the rivets, let me know and I'll find some more information on changing it over. | ||
| Super 55 |
MIne is rivited. I could actually turn the rivet I was looking at. I'll have to take a close look at that assembly. I looked through the manual to see if there were any upgraded modifications, but I dont' see any listed. Any info you find on installing bolts would be apprecitated. It does mention some specs for tractors with bolts for torquing. | ||
| Chris Losey |
Here is the parts breakdown for the 550 differential. Early ones used the same part number as the Super 55 with later 550's having an alternate part number of 104241A. Alternate means that they are interchangeable. The bolts are part number 5 and 7 in the list.   My repair manual states that the holes may have to be reamed to make the bolts fit through the carrier and/or the ring gear. I would be sure to get grade 8 bolts for this application. If you already have loose rivets, I would be concerned about them holding up. If your tractor is just going to be a parade princess or only do light work, you'll pobably never have a problem with the rivets. But it isn't going to get any easier to replace them than it is now. | ||
| Super 55 |
Hey Chris no way can I leave those bolts in now after you mentioned "parade princess". Now I have to take them out. The only question I have is other than torquing them, what keeps them from loosening up? Should I use locktite on them? Or a nylock nut? Oh, by the way, my rims are ready for pick up. Nicely painted, (I hope). I had my Chrysler paint them for me. They take good care of my car and Dakota and I figured I can trust them to do as good a job as any other shop. I supplied the AGCO paint, they supplied the epoxy primer. | ||
| Chris Losey |
I would use a lock nut of some kind. That is what mine has in it now, ones just like in the picture from the 2050 above. A lock nut that is too agressive will throw off your actual torque, so a nylock nut with a dab of lock-tite for insurance should do a good job. Sounds like things are coming together. Looking forward to more pictures as always. | ||
| Canada Grant [a long way east of super 55] |
I would put the bolts in your differential as most wrecks here have rear end robbed for this reason . Its a longer drive to here for super 55 if he needs a whole rear end than just to summer show!!! |
